I always had Roland Mouret pegged as the guy who made those dresses which held everything in. You remember – the Galaxy dress, that one which was ripped off a thousand times by everyone else? Well that was my opinion until I saw his pieces up close and personal this week at his Mayfair showroom.
To be fair the sculpted dresses are still a mainstay of his collection, but for Fall 13 Monsieur Mouret has gone all edgy and detail dotty. Whether it’s a sneaky peplum that’s not really a peplum, or a pocket masquerading as a pleat, his attention to creating a flattering silhouette has never been more on point. I’m a bit of an assymetric hemline fan, so for me this stuff was just up my street.
From the diamond panel pieces which work a kind of Mondrian meets modern graphic vibe, but always with an eye on complimenting the female form. To the monochrome tux style looks fashioned out of crepe de chine and stretch double crepe – these have the feel of being so super sturdy that you could probably comission a superheroine’s outfit from it. There’s no inner corsetry or wizadry involved here, it’s just plain and simple master tailoring with modern fabrics done right.
I also loved the extras for Fall. Who doesn’t need an extra pair of leg boots to pull on over yesterdays pants? These leg warmers of the future, along with the collar details have brought a funky new feel to the classic brand, which have trendsetter written all over them.
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